Showing posts with label Fes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fes. Show all posts

Monday, February 3, 2014

The Roman ruins of Volubilis

During our stay in Fes, we were offered an optional day trip.
We settled onto a small bus for a two hour trip away from all of the hustle and bustle
and out into a Moroccan valley to visit the Roman ruins of Volubilis.
The ruins date back two thousand years and have been partially excavated and restored.

Volubilis Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

This was once a prosperous Roman city that centered around olives and the production of olive oil.
It was abandoned in the 11th Century and excavated by the French in the late 1800's.
Damaged by earthquakes and looted for limestone, some of the ruins have been restored.

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Here you will see some of the most impressive examples of intact Roman mosaics.

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

We had a very friendly English speaking guide that led us around the ruins.
It was such a beautiful day and it felt good to be out in the fresh air after the intensity of Fes.

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

It's not a Roman ruin without some phallic carving to declare this space a brothel.

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

We had gorgeous views of the surrounding fertile countryside and I could easily imagine myself in Italy.

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

We spent a few hours exploring and taking photos, watching the views change as the sun went down.
We stopped for a coffee at the ramshackle cafe on site before heading back to Fes.

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

Volubilis Roman Ruins near Fez, Morocco

My notes for that day say that were were too exhausted to even have dinner that night.
We just finished off some junk food from our bags and went to bed early.
I think all of that sunshine and open space was just what we needed midway through our tour of Morocco.

Where are your favorite Roman ruins?



Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Made in Morocco

When you explore Fès, you will be struck by the handicrafts on display.
In the showrooms, you will find any number of fabulous items; leather, silver, pottery and more.
But take a peak behind the showrooms and you will really be enthralled.

Moroccan artisans have been creating these treasures the same way for hundreds of years.
In this ancient guild society, skills and jobs are passed down from generation to generation. 
They are using methods that have been unchanged for centuries.

We visited both a pottery and a tannery during our stay in Fès.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

Morocco is well-known for its pottery.  We were proudly shown around the workrooms.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

We watched the artists handpainting geometric and arabesque designs on dishes of all shapes and sizes.
I so wanted to sit down and join them.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

We brought home a miniature Moroccan Tagine which is a Berber cooking vessel with a conical lid.
Many of our wonderful Moroccan meals were served in these.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco


Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

Isn't she lovely?  I asked if I could take her photograph,
she nodded sweetly and then primped for a moment, tucking a stray lock of hair into her scarf.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

Tiles are cut down into intricate shapes and then turned into the most beautiful, mosaic fountains.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

Fès is particularly famous for creating blue and white pieces using cobalt oxide.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

The showroom was full of pieces with beautiful designs influenced by centuries of Islamic culture.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

I had read much about the famous tanneries of Fès.
The city once had hundreds of them in the Medina, but now there are only a few left.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

In the Leather Souk, you will find one of the oldest tanneries in the world.
In a method that is unchanged since the 11th Century, the hides of goats and sheep
are cleaned and dyed by hand (or foot) without the help of any machinery.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

The white stone vessels contain a concoction of water, limestone and acidic pigeon droppings.
The hides are soaked there first to soften them and remove any tissue or hair.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

Then they are soaked in the vats of dye and cow's urine to give them distinctive colors.
Traditionally, the tubs would contain natural dyes; indigo for blue, henna for orange or saffron for yellow.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco


The workers spend hours standing in these liquids, working the hides with their feet.
Chemicals are now sometimes used to the detriment of their health.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

The hides are then spread out on the rooftops to dry before being trimmed and sewn into
shoes, coats, bags and foot stools.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

The tannery is surrounded by showrooms with terraced balconies.
We were led up into the top of one to watch the work and take photographs.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

I had read about the strong odors and that visitors are often given a spring of mint to help them deal with the smell.
It did smell but I don't remember it being that bad.
We were there in April so the weather was mild.  It may be worse in the summer.

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

The leather goods are absolutely beautiful.  Rows and rows of shoes!
Unfortunately, my husband is a firm believer in just taking away the experience and sees no need to shop.
(But, honestly, it breaks my heart that I didn't purchase these shoes.) 

Pottery and Tannery of Fes, Morocco

The tannery was one of the most amazing things I've ever seen.
One more reason to visit this incredible city.


Don't you think I should have purchased some shoes while in Morocco?



Monday, January 27, 2014

Time Traveling in Morocco

The Medina of Fez is a UNESCO World Heritage site and
one of the most amazing places I have ever seen.
It really must be experienced to be believed.  The word medina simply means city.
But, there is nothing simple about Fès-al-Bali, the largest of the two medinas in Fès.

 If you've ever wanted to time travel, this is the place.
The walled city dates back to the 9th century and is one of the best preserved old cities in all of the world.

Again, the word juxtapostion comes to my mind.
The modern and the medieval all combine in a maze of bustling life.
More than 150,000 people live, work, eat, and shop amongst these narrow, winding streets.
It's also the home to many animals, some for transport, some as pets and some for dinner.

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

Many of the streets are lined with small shops and handicrafts.
It's a great place to shop and practice your haggling skills.
You never know what you might spot among the treasures.

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

We spent many hours walking through the maze of narrow streets.
It's said to be the largest car free urban area in the world.
We had few guides that helped us find our way.

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

We walked through at a slow pace because there was so much to see.
I relaxed into taking photos but was really able to put the camera down and just take it all in.
We were often hustled over to the side so that a pack mule or donkey could pass by safely.

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

Again, I find myself at a loss for words.
I addressed this before when writing about a trip to Paris.
The experience of travel includes seeing things that aren't all shiny and lovely.
Every place has sights that make you sad or are hard to see.
But, I wouldn't take anything for those experiences.

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

In spite of some of these things, the Medina is one of the most beautiful places I've seen.
Not like the ice-capped mountains of Austria, or the green fields of Ireland.
Not always "pretty" in a visual sense, although it's certainly visually mesmerizing.

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

It's beautiful in that it's so very full of life. It's just bursting with it.
And sometimes usually, life is messy.  It's not always sterile and structured.
But, it's certainly no less beautiful.

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

Fes Souk

After my post about Tangier, several of you asked me
"Yes, but did you like Morocco?  Would you recommend it?"
The short answer is "Yes! Absolutely."


Fes Souk

Fes Souk


I'm still working out the long answer to the question and still struggling to find the words.
But, when I look at these photos, I want more than anything to be walking the
exotic streets of Fès al Bali.


Here are some of the notes I scribbled while we were in the Medina.

 Pathways feel like tunnels.  But not claustrophobic.
Butcher shop.  Seafood Shop.  Sound of scissors snipping at fish.
Cats wait patiently for scraps.  Ripe, beautiful fruit.
Children's school.  Their voices singing.  Shoes on the wall outside.

Happy, healthy children.  Lots of animals.
Trash in the streets.  Dead Kitten.  Friendly faces.
 Eager questions in English. "You German?"  "French?" "English?"
Always smile in surprise when I say "American."

Smiling toddlers in a donkey cart.  Ponies loaded with boxes.
Children taking loaves of bread from the local kilns.
Not all faces are friendly.

Communal wash areas.  Few dogs.
Chicken dunked into boiling water and plucked in minutes.
Little girl walking by with bread on her head smiles at me.



Have you ever gotten lost in the beauty of a Medina?