Wednesday, November 18, 2015

The Temple of Hatshepsut & Handling Vendors in Egypt

Ancient Egypt is a huge part of the curriculum in American schools.  Or at least it was when I was growing up.  We learned all about the pyramids and hieroglyphics.  My dad's collection of National Geographic was another source of information.  

Ancient Egypt is also very popular in Hollywood.  Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra, Raiders of the Lost Ark and who can forget Steve Martin's ode to King Tut.  You're going to have that little ditty in your head all day now.  You're welcome.  Or how about "Walk like an Egyptian" by the Bangles.  Even better.

It's obvious how Ancient Egypt has captured the imagination of generations of people.  To see it all up close and personal was a dream come true.  It's even more magnificent than you expect.

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Our first stop was the Valley of the Kings.  Unfortunately, you must leave your cameras in the car so I have no photos which is such a shame because it's certainly photo worthy.  There are over 60 tombs in the valley dating back to the 16th to the 11th centuries BC.  Only about 15 are open to the public for viewing which they rotate.  So on any given day you can visit four tombs with your ticket.  Each tomb is more elaborate than the next, every inch covered with writings and symbols.  King Tutankhamun's tomb was the most recently discovered in 1922 and one of the few that had not been raided.  We were able to see much of the collection at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

All of the photographs in this post are from our next stop "the Great and Majestic Necropolis of the Millions of Years of the Pharaoh, Life, Strength, Health in the West of Thebes" otherwise known as the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut.

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

The temple is dedicated to the sun god Amon-Ra.  It is currently being restored by the Polish Academy of Sciences in Warsaw.  Unfortunately, it is also the place where 62 people, mostly tourists, were massacred in 1997 by Islamist extremists.  As you can imagine, there was visible security measures in place, as there was everywhere that we went.

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

The temple is built into the cliffs of Deir el Bahari.  Can you see the figure of a woman in the cliffside below? She's sitting down and hugging her knees in profile.

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

The temple is made up of three levels of terraces held up with colonnades with a ramping staircase leading up the center.  It once would have had gardens throughout. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Dueling Nikons with the Jones. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

It was built to be the burial site for Hatshepsut and inspired by the divine birth of a female pharaoh.  There weren't many female rulers in Ancient Egypt, but she was one of a few and was considered extremely successful.  She came onto the throne in 1478 BC. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Our guide from the tour group was able to tell us everything he could about the temple beforehand, but he was not able to enter with us.  There are several tour guides wandering around, eager to tell you all about the temple for a fee.  Be sure not to take up their time if you do not intend to pay them accordingly. LIke most people just trying to make a living, they can be persuasive and persistent.

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

You know how when you go to a museum or an attraction, you are often filtered through a gift shop to exit?  Or when you go to the airport and after security, you have to walk along a winding pathway of shopping temptations?  Attractions in Egypt are the same, to get in or out you will have to pass by booth after booth of retail opportunities. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

If you believe what you read on the internet, Egypt has some of the most aggressive vendors and touts on the planet.  Touts are middleman that are trying to sell you a service or a ride.  They can be particularly aggressive. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

I had read about every tricky sales tactic and potential scam before we went.  It wasn't nearly as bad as I had expected.  That is partly because of the research and preparation we did beforehand.  We knew what to expect and how to avoid most issues. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

When approached, which did happen often, we would just firmly say "La Shukran" or "No, thank you."  We were polite but didn't make much eye contact or engage at all.  Sometimes you might have to repeat yourself, but it did always work. 


Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Our guide also told us if someone approaches and tries to hand you something do not take it.  There were several times I would have to put my hands behind my back to avoid this. (I had mastered this maneuver in Morocco avoiding the henna artists.  Once they have you in their grip, you will be getting a tattoo.)

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt
  Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

If you don't intend to enter into a transaction, it's best not to waste their time. At the pyramids, we saw some young girls doing it all wrong.  The young man was trying to sell them some scarves.  The girls let him wrap the scarves around their heads as they took pictures and selfies.  Laughing and having a great time, even though they had no intention of purchasing a scarf.  

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

When it came time to close the deal, it got a bit heated.  The vendor was not at all happy as you can imagine.  One young girl ended up running up behind him and stuffing the scarf back into his bag and then dashing off.  They seemed to see it all as a joke, which it certainly is not. These people are trying to support their families in an economy that has become progressively harder in recent years. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Due to the recent political unrest and terrorist threats, Egypt is dealing with a decline in tourist revenue of almost 90% according to some sources.  If you handle people respectfully, they will usually do the same.  And if they don't you can always contact the Tourist Police that are available in all of the tourist areas. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Other than being mildly annoyed we had no problems with touts or aggressive vendors (except once that Matt is going to tell you about in a future post).  The fact that we were with a private guide also likely helped immensely.  Our guides were well-known at the sites and would steer us to people that they knew and trusted if we did want to buy something.

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

Our day did include built in "shopping opportunities" that can be so annoying.  One was a stop at an alabaster shop.   But, I didn't mind as I wanted to buy a Scarab.  It was one of the hieroglyphics that caught my eye repeatedly.  It's a symbol of rebirth and the perfect souvenir to bring home with us.  They were nice enough to steer us away from the factory made ones and recommend a lovely hand carved option. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

The vast majority of the people dealing with tourists in Egypt understand the importance of tourism and making sure that visitors have an enjoyable and safe experience. This was the case with everyone that we spoke to. It was heartbreaking to hear some of the first hand stories of the devastating affects of the drop in tourism.  If you consider this and deal with people accordingly, I think you'll love Egypt as much as we did even with the touts and vendors. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

There is a little train that takes you up to the entrance of the temple.  Matt got to ride up front in the tractor pulling the train.  It was completely worth it to him to tip the driver for that special treat. 

Handling Vendors Touts in Egypt

So to handle the hard sell in Egypt, just be prepared, respectful and get used to saying "La Shukran" a lot.  Or just get out your hard earned money and help support the economy of a country that has so much to offer. 

What are your tips for handling touts and aggressive sales people when you travel?


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