Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Jamaa el Fna by Night - Marrakesh

Our first evening in Marrakesh had to be spent in the middle of all the excitement.
The Jamaa el Fna is the heart of the old city and really comes alive at night.

Sometime around dusk dozens of food tents appear and smoke fills the air.
Hear the sizzle.  Smell the meat cooking.  Admire all of the fresh veggies.
Listen to the persistent young men try to entice you to their stall.
After all, it's the best and you won't be sorry!

Grab some dessert as the sweets trolley passes by.
Once your stomach is full and you're caught up in the atmosphere,
stroll around the square.  It's much too early to go home and there is much to see.

Listen to the storytellers, watch the dancers and magicians.
Stop to haggle and make a bargain.  You must take that little lantern home with you.
To remind you of the Jamaa el Fna at night.

Jamaa el Fna  - The Square of Morocco by Night

Jamaa el Fna  - The Square of Morocco by Night

Jamaa el Fna  - The Square of Morocco by Night

Jamaa el Fna  - The Square of Morocco by Night

Jamaa el Fna  - The Square of Morocco by Night

Jamaa el Fna  - The Square of Morocco by Night

Jamaa el Fna  - The Square of Morocco by Night

Jamaa el Fna  - The Square of Morocco by Night

We had some great moments in Marrakesh.  Like this one.
But I'm afraid that there was also a downside to our visit.
More on that later this week.

Have you experienced Marrakesh at night?
What impressions did you bring home?



Monday, March 24, 2014

My UK Settlement

Guess what I'm doing today?  Going to the office for my first day at my new full-time job!

I'm very excited and nervous.  It's been almost a year since I've worked.
It was so wonderful to have a year off to work on this little blog of mine.

As wonderful as it's been, it certainly doesn't pay the bills.
Not to mention that I'm one of those unusual people that absolutely loves accounting.
I worked so hard on getting my degree and qualifications.  It's time to put it to good use again.
 So, it's off to work I go!  Wish me luck.

One of the other big things that was in the pipeline was acquiring my
Indefinite Leave to Remain from UK Immigration.

Since starting this whole expat adventure I've read so many incredible Visa stories.
So many people have had to go through separations and long distance relationships.
We've been so lucky that other than the major expense we haven't faced any major challenges.

Here's the logistics of our international love story.


Matt and I met in the US and were married there in January 2011.
We first went through the process of getting Matt a Green Card as we were settling in the US.
Then after a year, we decided to move to the UK and applied for my Spousal Visa.
You can read all of the details in this guest post I did for Betsy Transatlantically.

After 27 months, my Spousal Visa expires next month so it was time to take the next step.
For me that is Settlement with an "Indefinite Leave to Remain."
(Six months after we moved they changed the regulations and for people applying after that date,
they require two Spousal Visa periods of 27 months before Settlement.)

The first step was taking my Life in the UK Test which is a 24 question multiple- choice quiz.
The cost was £50 and I took the test at a local testing centre after several weeks of study.
I used the official testing booklet and read it through probably 3 times as well as the Study Guide.
That was an interesting experience.  I was thrilled to pass! If you are getting ready to take the test
and want more details just send me an email.  I'm happy to share my experience.

Then it was a matter of determining the correct form to complete.
In my case, it was the 37 page SET(M) document for
"the spouse or partner of a person present and settled in the UK."
Additional items that we needed included Life in the UK Pass Letter, passport photos, payment confirmation, letters proving our address for two years and more.  We ended up with a large packet which included the application,
original documents as requested and copies of everything.

There are several options in applying for an ILR.  You can send your application in by mail.
Or you can apply in person at a Premium Service Centre.
The major con of sending it off by mail is that it takes 4-6 months for processing
and during that time you don't have your passport.  The cost for this is currently £1,051 ($1,733).

We opted for the quicker option of applying in person which is currenly £1,426 ($2,352).
Incredibly expensive but worth it to not have to give up my passport for any period of time.
Not to mention that I'm starting a new job and I didn't want any ambiguity in my right to work in the UK.
The peace of mind for both of us to have everything decided and settled is also invaluable.

I had heard that it might be difficult to get an appointment,
but when I registered online there were plenty of appointment times available.
We paid the fee at the same time that we made the appointment.

Matt was not required to join me but I was pretty stressed out about the whole process.
I might have shed a tear and he happily accompanied me.  (Thanks, Baby!)
On Wednesday we headed to Croydon with our packet of documents for our 9:30 appointment.

Many applicants had attorneys or advocates with them and there are services
that will assist you through the process.  We opted to go it alone.
As this was just confirmation that we were still married and settled in the UK,
the paperwork wasn't nearly as involved as the initial Spousal Visa application.

It went like clockwork.
Arrived at 9am and waited for entry.
9:15 we went through security and checked in.
They confirmed payment and the correct application form then gave us a number.
We then waited for our number to be called in the nice little cafe.
Within 15 minutes, my number was called for my application to be entered into the system.
We sat at a desk while a worker entered everything, checked everything.
We were given everything back and told to wait again.
15 minutes later was called in to do my biometrics.  Fingerprints and photo.
We waited again while they checked that I was actually who I was claiming to be.
Then we were sent back to the cafe to wait for a caseworker to review my case.
We went back to the cafe and waited 90 minutes watching the number board anxiously.
They have a little number board where you can watch your application progress through the system.
I was so relieved to see my number pop up on the "Pick up Documents" screen.
We picked up our docs along with a letter of approval. Yay! We were done by noon.


My Biometrics Card arrived in the post two days later.
I now have "Indefinite Leave to Remain" which means I can live and work in the UK indefinitely.
I'm still subject to immigration control but considered settled in the UK.

As I said in the guest post, it gets pretty complicated and changes every day.  If you are going through this,
I highly recommend that you do as much research as possible and consult an expert.
It’s important to dot every “i” and cross every “t.”  It takes time, money, patience and great attention to detail.

Plus, it can be pretty stressful.  We've been pretty lucky through it all.
My heart goes out to those who are separated with their partners through the immigration process.
I can't even imagine how difficult that must be.
 
Should I choose, my next step would be to get UK citizenship.
As the spouse of a UK citizen, current regulation allows me to do that after being here for three years.
 But, that's a decision for another day.

 How was your settlement process?

 

Thursday, March 20, 2014

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

After an awe inspiring morning exploring The Golden Circle while bundled up against the frigid cold,
what could be better than stripping off all of those layers and lowering your cold limbs into a warm, steamy bath?

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Doing just that in the open air with these magical views of Iceland.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Throw in a glass of wine delivered poolside and I'm in heaven! 
This is exactly how we ended our day on The Golden Circle at the

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Located on Lake Laugarvatn, only about 50 minutes from Rekyjavik,
Laugarvatn Fontana is one of three natural springs located in this hot zone.
Dating from the 1920's, it was the site of historical spa facility.
These new facilities were built in 2011 and use all of this natural geothermal activity
to provide visitors with a relaxing, healing spa experience.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Our visit started with a great lunch of grilled ham and cheese sandwiches.
They have a lovely little cafe offering healthy salads and soups,
as well as scrumptious cakes and coffee.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Then it was time to select our experience. Basic admission is 2.800 ISK, or about £15.
A big towel and a fluffy, white robe are an additional £10.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

We each went to our changing areas to put on our swimsuits.
The changing facilities are roomy and nice.  We were each given a key for our own private lockers.
Sinks, mirrors, blowdryers and toilets, everything you need.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

When you visit a spa in Iceland, you'll be asked to shower in the nude before putting on your swimsuit.
Most facilities don't have private showers, so leave your modesty at home.
That was a bit of a challenge for this prudish American, but luckily, I happened to have the place to myself.
Quickly, it was time to head outside which is where that big, fluffy robe came in handy.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

It was freezing cold outside, but as soon as our feet hit the warm, mineral bath
we didn't feel the cold again.  There are several pools at varying temperatures.
We went straight for Viska, the hottest one, built up on a higher level with great views.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

When the heat of Viska made us a little light-headed, we moved over to another pool,
which was big and deep enough to do a few laps.
It felt so good to just move around in the warm water after so much driving.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

There are three natural steam rooms that are built directly over the hot springs.
When you step in you can hear the water bubbling away below the slatted wood flooring.
They also have a sauna with a big window and views of the lake.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

I can't even tell you how relaxing this was.  We could just feel the stress leaving our bodies.
And those views!  Our time at this spa was one of the highlights of our trip.
We had a chance to just relax and breathe, to warm our bones after a long, cold winter.
It was quite romantic, too and a chance to reconnect.  Everything a weekend getaway should include.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Most of the baths are treated, but they have one that is just natural spring water.
The water is so warm and soft.  We lowered ourselves so that only our heads were out of the water.  It was heavenly.
With the natural lava rocks surrounding the pool and the steam rising off the water,
Matt kept joking about expecting to see the Japanese Snow Monkeys.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

After plenty of time enjoying the views and the warm water, we reluctantly changed back into our streetclothes.
Warmed from the inside, we didn't need nearly as many layers as before.
But, we had one more more experience to enjoy before we left.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

The energy from the geothermal spas is used for many things, including baking.
Our guide grabbed a shovel and took us over to an area on the banks of the lake.
As she started digging, boiling water started filling in the small pit she dug.
Each day they bake a batch of bread by burying it in this dirt overnight.
Someone else from the neighborhood had buried their own batch nearby.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

Oh my goodness, it was dee-lish!  Slathered with some creamy butter.  Yum!
The Rye Bread Experience is daily at 2:30pm and is about £8.
It was the perfect way to end our time at the Spa.

Iceland's Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths

We had an fabulous time at the Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths.
This is a great addition to your tour of The Golden Circle.

Here's a tip: The tour buses show up just in time for the Rye Bread Experience.
We got there about lunch time and had the place almost to ourselves until then.
As we were getting out of the water, the tour group was just getting in.

It's open daily from 11am to 9pm.
 Even if you don't want to get wet, the Laugarvatn Fontana Cafe is a great place to stop for lunch.
It's also a stop on several excursions and tours of The Golden Circle.

Wouldn't this be perfect to visit in the evening as the sun was going down?

Have you luxuriated in a geothermal hot spot?  What did you think?


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 *We were guests of Laugarvatn Fontana for the purposes of review.
 All photos, writing and opinions are my own.
As always, I promise to be open, honest and transparent with my readers.
If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.