A moving visit to Dover Castle

I received a scathing memo from myself today regarding the fact that I have yet to post about our Dover Castle Trip.  It's making me crazy that my blog is now out of chronological order.  But, I think I'll get over it. 

A few weeks ago, on a very cold but sunny Saturday, we made the quick trip from Folkestone to Dover to visit the the royal castle of Dover.

 

Dover Castle was built by William the Conqueror in 1066.  And since then it has been rebuilt and expanded by successive kings.  The fortress also played an important role in World War II and even the Cold War. 

The castle sits dramatically above the White Cliffs of Dover overlooking the English Channel and the Kent Countryside.  It guards the nearest point to mainland Europe.

During WWII, Dover and the surrounding area suffered over 2,000 bomb attacks, however, the castle was never hit.  It is said that Hitler demanded that it not be damaged because he had plans to take over the gateway to Great Britain as he expanded his territory.   Apparently, his ambitions protected many of the great, historical buildings in England. 

It is believed that there was an Iron Age fort here before the castle was built.  

 The oldest structure is the Roman lighthouse which stands at the highest point and dates from the 2nd Century AD.  

 The Church of St. Mary-in-Castro was originally built around 1000 AD.  It had fallen into ruins and was being used as a coal store.  In the 1800's, it was restored and is still used today as the garrison church.  Many soldiers choose to have their weddings here. 

It was a beautiful day to time-travel.  The self-guided tour is divided into two time periods.  (Sadly, there was no audio-tour but it's very interactive.)  We first visited the castle area which focuses on the Medieval period and later we explored the outer fortifications and the battlement which focuses on World War II. 

We visited at the beginning of half-term break, so they had a special Knight's Training School set up for the visiting children.  There were many guides about in medieval costumes interacting with the guests.

The exhibits are fun and interactive and there is a lot for the kids to enjoy. 

 The Great Tower was amazing.  It's open so you can just run around and explore  to your hearts content.  The kids were loving the Knight's Training School and we got to see them pledge loyalty to the King and be knighted by the touch of a sword to each shoulder.  I can't wait to go back with grandchildren some day!

There is a small chapel.  I love the reflections of the colors on the stones. 

The Queen greeted us in her chambers.  She congratulated all of the new knights. 

 The rooms are beautifully decorated and notice no ropes to keep you away. 

So many nooks and crannies to explore.  (And, yes, the swords were bolted down.)

We then turned our attention to the Wartime Tunnels.  Soldiers were garrisoned at Dover Castle from 1066 until 1958.  A network of tunnels lie beneath the castle.  They were dug out over 200 years ago to provide barracks for the troops responding to threat of French invasion.  They were expanded and returned to service during WWII. 

The tunnels housed the command center for the channel  operations and in 1940, the monumental evacuation of troops from Dunkirk was coordinated from these tunnels.  There is a guided tour that leads you through the story of the death-defying rescue of over 338,000 men.  If you have never read the story of Dunkirk and Operation Dynamo, I would encourage you to do so.  It is a truly amazing story. 

One thing the tour did not focus on was the 40,000 soldiers who were left behind.  They were captured by the Nazis and marched to Poland.  They spent the next 5 years as prisoners of war and suffered unspeakable horrors.  Matthew's grandfather, Fred Jones, was one of these men.  Matthew's dad was just a baby when his father was captured at Dunkirk.  He didn't see him again until he was a young boy of 5.  

 

It was a wonderful and also a very moving day.  

 A people without the knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without roots.  

~Marcus Garvey 

 Here is the photo album.  And I fixed the link to the Windsor album if you still want to see it. 

 

It's a love/hate thing.

All new relationships cause some anxiety, right?  And, yes, I may have been diagnosed  accused of being prone to anxiety.  But, I do a pretty good job of hiding it.  You would never even notice my weeping, mumbling and rocking on a plane unless you were right next to me.  (I really, really hate to fly.) 

So, I love trains and I find riding the train across England to be very relaxing.  I knew that my primary form of transportation in London would be the subway.  I thought "no problem!"  Not only are we not up in the air,  we are actually below ground level.  Can't get much safer than that.  Yes, the whole system is 150 years old.  And I am one of 4 million people traveling each day.  And the cars are careening through small, dark tunnels at 50mph.  And, yes, some of them do actually pass under the Thames and go as deep as 200 feet.  Uhm.  One sec.  I just need to breathe into this paper bag for a moment.  

I've only used the Underground so far for relaxed travel around London.  I'm not yet depending on it each day to get to and from work.  I have my own little blue Oyster Card to get me on and off.  I have no idea what "oyster" has to do with the Tube.  According to Wiki... Oyster was conceived and subsequently promoted because of the metaphorical implications of security and value in the component meanings of the hard bivalve shell and the concealed pearl; the association of London and the River Thames with oysters and the well-known travel-related idiom "the world is your oyster".  Oh-kay.  

Matt is an old pro at this obviously.  As soon as we pass through the gates, he adopts the standard facial demeanor... blank.  He disconnects from the world and his pace picks up.  He moves deliberately and forcefully along with everybody else.  In his book London Under: The Secret History Beneath the Streets,  Peter Ackroyd writes:  

It is a solitary experience, even though you are never alone.  There is nothing joyful about the proximity to a hundred or a thousand individuals estranged one from another.  The Underground is a deep pool of individual solitudes.  Somehow "I" is now indistinguishable from "them."

Sounds like fun, huh?  I am left to emulate this behavior and keep up.  So, I adopt the same physical demeanor for the trip to our next stop.  I remind myself to breathe and mind the gap.  And from the outside, no one would ever know that this is what's actually going on in my head.  (You really should watch the entire clip for the full effect.)

I probably shouldn't admit the inner workings of this brain, should I? And according to Mr. Ackroyd, it's not an uncommon reaction to the experience.

Certain people are afraid of the Underground.  The journey under the earth inspires panic and claustrophobia.  It induces dreams of the fire and suffocation.   You may experience what has been called the fear and madness of crowds.  Once you are immersed in the other-land, removed from the familiar world, you may suffer from inexplicable terrors.

Boy, I just can't wait until I'm using it every single day.  I have yet to experience the crush of rush hour, or delays leaving you sitting in a dark tunnel for an hour, or "jumpers," or late night drunken shenanigans.  The stories are endless and I'm bound to experience all of this and more.  Pardon me while I grab the paper bag again.  

Peter Ackroyd goes on in his book to say...

That is why most travellers are hurried in the Underground; they wish to arrive at their destination as soon as possible.  The Tube system is devoted to finding the shortest route possible between two locations.  It is not really a place at all.  

It is a process of movement and expectation.

(Mr. Ackroyd's book is actually very interesting and full of amazing information about the world beneath London.)  From what I can see, most Londoners have a love/hate relationship with the Underground.   Here are some fun blogs and websites about the Underground..  Going Underground, Going Underground's Blog, Underground History.

So, what's to love?

London's parks are said to be its lungs and the Underground its circulatory system.  It is a crucial part of modern London and makes it what it is today.  And so much history.  It is the second largest metro system in the world and the 3rd busiest in Europe.   It is the quickest and easiest way to get around London.   Convinced yet?  Me neither.  But, I'm trying really hard to find the good stuff. 

Last week was mid-term break and all of the English schoolchildren swarmed into London to visit the museums.  The wait to get into the Natural History Museum was about two hours.  It was crazy!  But, we happened to be passing through the South Kensington Station as the museums were closing.  The train was full of children.  It was terrific.  The little ones haven't yet picked up on the required protocol for riding the Tube.  They will actually... gasp!... make eye contact.  I can't help but smile, they quickly look at their parents to make sure everything is okay.  Then they glance back and return the smile.   

There are often prams on the trains with babies gazing about at all the faces around them.  I've seen dogs on the trains.  I've seen teens and tweens traveling in small groups.  Women travel alone without a second thought.  There are always people on the train who speak little or no English.  I've seen several people on the Tube who are visually impaired and using walking sticks.  I can't really go into histrionics with so many brave people about about now, can I?  

So, I will proceed cautiously with this new relationship, in the hopes that I will eventually find the love.  But, I'm afraid I might to have to get back with you.  I will keep the paper bag handy. 

One of those nights...

I'm sure most of you have had this experience. 

You plan and plan for a special night out.  You purchase tickets in advance.  You buy a new outfit including new black pumps (because the other 17 pairs in your closet are just not quite right).  You make reservations at The perfect spot at The perfect time.  You make lists and plan everything to the last detail.  But, as the saying goes... "The best laid schemes o' mice an' men..." often go awry.  The night comes and goes and (sound effects)... it doesn't quite live up to expectations. You'd have been better off staying at home in your pj's, watching The Gilmore Girls and eating a cheesecake for dinner (not that I've ever done that.) 

Well, last night was NOT one of those nights!  It was not expected or planned out to the last detail.  It just came together and it was great!  Don't you just love when that happens?  

One of the expat blogs that I enjoy is Expat Mum.  She is a British author and blogger who was whisked away to the US by an American accountant, so we have a little bit in common in a Parent Trap sort of way.   She had a drawing a few weeks ago for tickets to see Straight No Chaser in London last night.  We were lucky enough to be one of the winners!  We headed up to London for the weekend.

We had no plans for pre-show dinner, so decided to head over to Islington, find the venue and hopefully, find someplace close by to dine.   We had walked a block or two and nothing looked too promising, until we happened upon a little Italian place called the Canonbury Kitchen.   The menu was very enticing so we decided to give it a try.   

Canonbury Kitchen (pic from their website)

Wow!  I'm not a foodie blogger, so I can't wax poetic about the gastric delights we experienced, but I can tell you...  it was Nummy!!!  This is what we had:  

Chickpea & Fennel Seed Fritters & Smoked Mozarella with Red Wine Syrup 

Mixed Salad

Pinot Grigio, Castel Firmian, Trentino Italy

Vistaflor Sangiovese/Malbec, Bodega Norton, Argentina

Saltimbocca: Veal & Parma Ham cooked with Sage & served with Roast Potatoes

Pan-Fried Fillet of Sea-Bass with Lemon Butter & Garlic Sauteed Spinach

Affogato Al Cafe

Classic Tiramisu

Amaretto

The servings were the perfect size to allow for a dessert indulgence without remorse.  The place was spotless, the kitchen pristine and the service was eccezionale!  It was one of the best meals we've had in London and we will definitely go back.

We then headed over to the Union Chapel to pick up the tickets at will-call (we got to jump queue... bonus!)   

  

Wow!  If you are going to hear an a cappella concert, is there a better venue than a Gothic Chapel?  I don't think so.  It was absolutely breathtaking.    

From their website:  "Opened on the 5th December 1877, the Union chapels main space is a fantastic example of the Victorian's obsession with all things Gothic.  It is octagonal in shape and is galleried on 5 sides.  The sight lines to the stage are excellent.  The detail in the craftsmanship is wonderful. 

 

The Main Auditorium at Union Chapel speaks for itself; it creates an ambiance and intimacy between audience and performers unlike any other venue in London.

It has great acoustics and has a very intimate feel for such a large space; it is a perfect setting for a performance."

Straight No Chaser is an a cappella group that originated in 1996 at Indiana University.  

In 2006, this performance from 1998 was posted on YouTube and went viral with over 14 million views.  SNC, made up of former members of the college group, signed a record deal in 2008 and have been touring and performing since.  

Wow!  They are absolutely amazing.  You completely forget that there are no instruments or tracks behind them.  

Close your eyes and picture being in this space...

hearing this song.  It was pretty magical and brought tears to my eyes.  (Yes, I realize it's a Madonna song, but go with me here.)  

They sang a good mixture of songs and entertained from the beginning until the end.   This is their first British tour and the crowd absolutely loved them... standing ovations and stomping for an encore.   The 9 members (1 was at home with a new baby) even seemed moved by the special venue and the reception that they received. 

Here is a quick shot from my phone... not great quality, but you get the idea.  If you ever get the chance to see them live, take it!


It was a great experience all around.  And, in spite of the fact that it just came together (and I didn't get a new pair of black pumps out of the deal), it was definitely one of those nights.